Cycling and Hiking in Hong Kong

Hong Kong is known for its large chain of islands, with each exuding a distinct vibe. Growing up, I was exposed to Cantonese cuisine like dim sum, clay pot rice and wonton noodles, Leslie Cheung and Anita Mui with their beautiful serenades, and the cinematic Chungking Express starring the ever-so-dashing Tony Leung and Takeshi Kaneshiro. One day in the spring of 2024, reminiscing about these faraway memories, I decided to visit Hong Kong to cycle and hike the dragon’s back. I will explain more in my 4-day-3-night itinerary below and on how I managed to keep my total expenditure (including return flight tickets) at ~RM 1500.

 

Day 1 (10 March 2024)

I departed from Kuala Lumpur International Airport at 7.15am to Hong Kong International Airport.

I arrived at Hong Kong International Airport after 4 hours. I received a Hong Kong entry pass at the airport’s immigration counter. It was valid until 8 June 2024. It is such a wonderful blessing that we, Malaysians, get to travel to so many countries visa-free.

I bought my bus ticket to Battery Street from the counter located outside the airport. The woman at the counter spoke little English but enough to sell me what I wanted.

Lantau Island houses Hong Kong Disneyland and Hong Kong International Airport, the peninsular includes the New Territory and Kowloon while Hong Kong Island encompasses the vivid scenes from Kar Wai’s Chungking Express, the Central Mid-level Escalator and some beautiful hiking trails. 

I checked into my hostel (https://g.co/kgs/WdACCyn) near the popular Victory Mahjong in Yau Ma Tei which has colourful and flashy neon lights. I was quite astounded to find myself in a tiny room with an even tinier bathroom (the shower holder was literally placed above the toilet bowl. I couldn’t wait to leave my tiny abode for the adventures that awaited me outside. The location and price were spot on though.

Most restaurants in Kowloon sold instant noodles, soup and pork cutlets for lunch. I ordered a plate and took the metro to Sha Tin. I had a first taste of the metro’s efficiency. It reminded me of Malaysia’s MRT lines.

Instant noodles are aplenty in Hong Kong.

Anyone up for a 70 HK $ durian?

Springy wonton noodles with creamy milk tea. All sorts of condiments on the side to choose from 😊

Located at walking distance from the metro station is Good Luck Bike, as seen here: https://g.co/kgs/JKdr225, I rented a bike. They closed at 7pm, but they kindly and patiently told me what I should do in case I arrived after 7pm. I cycled on a well-made cycling track till Ma On Shan. There were clear signs and trails for cyclists to follow with signages that indicated where to turn and where the routes led to. There are also plenty of maps on the net for you to familiarise yourselves with the route. 

Along the route that I chose, I could see the Shing Mun River, street lamps and the open sea. The total trip was 18km (to and fro).

My bicycle for the day!

Shing Mun River Promenade on a wet day.

I left for my metro station at Yau Ma Tei and walked for about 30 minutes to the famed ‘A Symphony of Lights’ showcase at the Victoria Harbour. The promenade was full house but I could still enjoy the firework spectacle as the promenade was lengthy. The old boats in the strait ablaze with colour contradicted perfectly with the tall structures and the blinding lights that made the sky look greyish. I don’t think the residents of Hong Kong Island have had the chance to see a sky full of stars in a long time.

Even the sea is painted in blue, green and red, apart from the grey sky.

On the way back, I bought bread and had dessert of white peach jelly, monk fruit juice and mango.

 

Day 2 (11 March 2024)

This day was magical as I managed to take the famous Star Ferry to the neighbouring Hong Kong island. I had an early breakfast near my hostel.

Siew Mai with mushroom and black coffee.

 

Cruising through Salisbury Rd. on the way to boarding my ferry.

Hong Kong island was filled to the brim with polished shoes, briefcases, and people from all over the world, committed to giving their best at work in this bustling city. What a city!

I stopped at Sheung Wan MTR Station, having departed from Central MTR Station via the Island Line. 

Central MTR station.

Breakfast hunters in the morning.

I bought soy milk from a cart vendor to quench my thirst before pacing myself to the Central Mid-Levels Escalators. Since the escalators went only in one direction, I had a long walk back to the Central. I also bought a postcard from the stationery shop and mailed it to my loved one at the Hong Kong General Post Office at the Central.

Trees are planted amidst sky-rocketing buildings.

The elevator was popularised in one of Wong Kar Wai’s movies.

I headed to MTR Shau Kei Wan and had a delicious meal near the MTR station.

Steamed rice with spicy eggplant and minced pork with iced lemon tea.

I hopped on van no.9 at the bus terminal next door to Tei Wan bus stop at around 11am. The Shek O hike to the Big Wave starts at the Tei Wan bus stop. As soon as I got dropped off, I started the hike mostly on my own as the weather was acting up. It was a misty day with clouds obscuring my view. I caught a glimpse of the sea and the dragon’s back below before clouds engulfed me. It then started drizzling. I had to turn back. 

What could have been a perfect view of the dragon’s back.

Stairs to nowhere.

Low-hanging clouds.

Tei Wan village and a small bay.

The Big Wave Trail is part of the 50km Hong Kong Trail. The trail was well-marked and the vegetation and view were unrivalled. You could even see various bird species chirping away.

I had lunch at a rest hut and headed to Tei Wan village across the road on a series of steps that led all the way down to the beach. After a quick dip in the sea, I returned to Tei Wan bus stop to hop on van no.9. It led me back to MTR Shau Kei Wan at around 6pm and I then headed to the central. I walked the many streets and hidden alleys. For dinner, I had steamed rice, pork cooked in sweet sauce and stir-fried choy sum.

Sunlight almost never penetrates the tall buildings in Hong Kong.

Rice, pork and choy sum for dinner.

Tired and in need of rest, I took the metro to Kowloon, stopping at Jordan MTR station via the Tsuen Wan line. In Kowloon, I had snake soup (snake meat in a funky-looking gooey soup) where you freely add finely chopped kafir leaves. I personally did not enjoy the snake meat as it was chewy and had a strong meaty-like smell.

 

Day 3 (12 March 2024) 

Today, my long cycling adventure was to begin. Before that, I had a hearty meal of instant noodles with pork cutlet. I decided to do the rather easy Yuen Long to Butterfly Beach route with a short re-routing to Tin Shui Wai that will take you along a river with retired communities all around  amounting to a whopping 13km ride. 

Breakfast of the champion.

The cycling track where I started off was at a bicycle shop called Lung Kee Bicycle Shop (https://www.lkbike-hk.com/) nearby Yuen Long MTR station. It is conveniently located close to the cycling entry/exit hub. I opted for a day’s rent and the bicycle could be dropped off at different points along the route. How convenient! 

The bicycle route wasn’t too busy with cyclists and takes you through some neighbourhoods, parks, greeneries, train tracks, busy pedestal crossings and finally the Tuen Mun Promenade. You can also relax at Butterfly Beach located close to the Tuen Mun Promenade. I was following the route on my pre-downloaded MAPS.ME app that is so useful for offline travelling (you must download the map of the places you want to visit beforehand online though).

Houses, shop lots and roads littered this part of the cycling track.

My cycling route is partially shaded by trees.

I had lunch of, yes, you guessed it right, more instant noodles and pork cutlets. However, this time, I had the most wonderful array of condiments made of pickles, sauces and different kinds of chillis. I was perspiring from all the condiments that I couldn’t help myself to devour. 

The condiments alone deserve a five-star.

The convenient light rail system serves the Tuen Mun area.

After returning my bicycle to the Wu Shan Recreation Playground, I took the bus heading to Yuen Long MTR Station bound for Yau Ma Tei MTR Station. 

Relaxing after a day’s worth of cycling.

I bought the famed pineapple bun and sweet milk tea, took my bags from my hostel’s storage facility, exchanged money and boarded bus no.A22 at Battery Street that was headed to the airport. It was almost 6pm when I boarded the bus. The sunset came into view, against the backdrop of a concentration of skyscrapers. The sun was reflected from the glass windows of the towering monsters (not in a bad way). 

My departure was scheduled for a much later time at 9.20pm and I took the opportunity to stroll around the airport. The airport has lounges that provide free games and countless working tables and chairs, overlooking the flight entry and exit lanes. Frozen (the cartoon) was also on display on the TV for you to lie down and watch while waiting for your flight. How cool is that!

 

Day 4 (13 March 2024) 

The next day, I safely arrived at KLIA.

Expenses (~RM 1500 per pax):

Details	Cost (HKD/RM)
Return AirAsia flight (KLIA-HKIA)	1515.72 / 821.69
Bus from Hong Kong International Airport to Battery Street	40.80 / 22.12
Hostel	231.66 / 125.59
Lunch	35 / 18.97
MTR Yau Ma Tei to Sha Tin	11 / 5.96
Tea time	35 / 18.97
Bicycle rent	70 / 37.95
MTR Sha Tin to Yau Ma Tei	11 / 5.96
Snacks	30.50 / 16.53
Ferry ride	5 / 2.71
Breakfast	30 / 16.26
MTR Central to Sheung Wan	5 / 2.71
Soy milk	8 / 4.34
Postcard	8 / 4.34
Stamps	5.50 / 2.98
MTR Central to Shau Kei Wan	10 / 5.42
Lunch	30 / 16.26
Van from Shau Kei Wan to Tei Wan bus stop	9.40 / 5.10
Van from Tei Wan bus stop to Shau Kei Wan	9.40 / 5.10
MTR Shau Kei Wan to Central	10 / 5.42
Dinner	35 / 18.97
MTR Central to Jordan	5 / 2.71
Supper	48 / 26.02
Breakfast	30 / 16.26
MTR Yau Ma Tei to Yuen Long	23 / 12.47
Bicycle rent	50 / 27.11
Lunch	30 / 16.26
Bus to MTR Yuen Long	5 / 2.71
MTR Yuen Long to Yau Ma Tei	23 / 12.47
Snacks	18 / 9.76
Bus from Battery Street to Hong Kong International Airport	40.80 / 22.12
Etiqa 360 Travel Insurance	182.29 / 98.82
Total Cost	2601.07 / 1410.07

 

* The exchange rate used is as of 20 June and serves as an approximate conversion only.

For more travel stories, visit the author’s personal blog at:
www.becausebrotherscelebrate2.wordpress.com